Why Serre Chevalier Might Be France’s Best Kept Ski Secret

If you’ve ever rolled your eyes at the price of a mountain coffee in the Alps or queued half an hour for a chairlift, let us introduce you to a resort that we come back to again and again: Serre Chevalier.

This is where the French go skiing, yet hardly any Brits seem to know about it. Over Christmas 2024 we spent another week skiing here, and it still feels like the France we always hope to ski - affordable, charming, and fantastic skiing.

Here’s why Serre Chevalier should be on your radar.

Why Serre Chevalier Is So Special

• It’s affordable: Coffee from €2, pints of beer from €4, and pizzas that don’t cost half your lift pass.

• It’s quiet: Even during a peak week, the only queues we saw were at ski school starting lifts. Most of the time, we had entire runs to ourselves and even powder on piste!

• It’s huge: Over 250km of pistes across four connected areas - one of the biggest ski domains in Europe.

• It’s reliable: With 80% of slopes above 1800m and plenty of north-facing runs, snow coverage is excellent.

• It’s beautiful: Thirteen villages scattered along a valley, each with its own French alpine charm.

The Skiing

Whether you’re a total beginner or an off-piste junkie, Serre Chevalier has you covered.

Beginners will love the wide, gentle areas above all the main villages. Perfect if you’ve got little ones or nervous skiers.

Intermediates get endless blues and reds, well-connected and rarely crowded. The views across the valley are stunning, and there’s nothing like carving your way down a nearly empty run.

Experts can push themselves with long blacks, challenging couloirs, and off-piste that doesn’t get tracked out in five minutes.

And with over 300 days of sunshine a year, chances are good you’ll be skiing under blue skies without compromising on snow quality.

Where to Stay (and Why It Matters)

One of Serre Chevalier’s biggest perks is the choice of villages, each with a different vibe.

• Briançon – A proper French town (UNESCO-listed, no less) with great-value accommodation. Perfect if you want history and a livelier local scene (feels down the mountain though).

• Chantemerle – Family-friendly, central, and easy for ski school. Stress-free for parents, and plenty of restaurants within walking distance (where we stayed this trip).

• Villeneuve – Great for groups or singles. Affordable digs, more nightlife, and a fun, buzzy feel (we stayed here when Caspar was a baby and took him to lots of the bars and restaurants sleeping in his pushchair!)

• Monêtier-les-Bains – Traditional alpine charm, quieter, and with thermal baths. Ideal for couples who fancy skiing by day and spa-ing by night.

Food & Après

This isn’t the overpriced, fondue-only fare you get in some Alpine resorts. Serre Chevalier still feels French in the best way: proper boulangeries, cosy brasseries, and bars where you’ll often pay local, not tourist prices.

• Lunch in the town: Expect €4 - €6 for simple but large filled baguettes, crepes and coffee from just  €2, which is almost unheard of in big-name Alpine resorts.

• Après-ski: Low-key but lovely. Grab a drink in the sun at the bottom of the slopes or head to Villeneuve for a livelier evening. We loved ending the day with a warm vin chaud in the village square, the tourist board were actually handing out loads of free drinks over the Christmas week.

• Dinner: Hearty French fare in any of the villages - everything from tartiflette to local charcuterie but also great options in the local creperies and super affordable pizzerias.

  
  

Off-Slope Activities & Non-Skiers

Not everyone wants to spend the entire day on skis. Serre Chevalier has plenty to offer:

• Spa & thermal baths in Monêtier - pure bliss after a day on the slopes.

• Snowshoeing or winter hikes - gentle walks through the quieter villages.

• Ice skating rinks - fun for kids and adults alike.

• Village exploration - charming cobbled streets, small boutiques, and local cafés to linger in.

Even if you’re not skiing, there’s a real French alpine experience here.

Getting There

The resort sits in the southern French Alps, with two main airport options:

• Grenoble – about 2 hours, with regular transfer buses (easiest for most Brits).

• Turin – 1.5 to 2.5 hours, closer in theory but with fewer transfer options.

• Car hire is popular here too if you want flexibility to explore the valley. Roads are generally well-maintained, even in snow, so don’t be intimidated by driving. On this trip we took a coach transfer with Bens Bus from Grenoble but previous we hired a car and drove from Turin airport.

Handy Insights

• Slopes are quieter even during peak weeks - a dream for stress-free skiing.

• The villages each have a distinct vibe; choose wisely based on your priorities (family-friendly, nightlife, couples).

• Lift passes are good value compared to the big name alpine resorts, and many ski schools are bilingual. Our boys had lessons with ESI who were great with them.

• Pack layers: temperatures can vary, the wind can be harsh too especially if you’re hitting higher runs or off-piste.

• Don’t forget sunglasses and sunscreen - those blue-sky days are brilliant but intense.

Pros & Cons

Pros

✔ Affordable food and drink

✔ Huge ski area with something for everyone

✔ Quiet slopes, even in peak weeks

✔ Loads of sunshine but still reliable snow

✔ Authentic alpine villages full of charm

Cons

✘ Après is low-key (a pro, depending on your taste)

✘ Less package-deal infrastructure than the big-name resorts

✘ Transfer times can be slightly longer than the Alps’ more famous spots

Final Thoughts

Serre Chevalier might not be somewhere every British skier is talking about, but maybe that’s exactly what makes it so brilliant. Between the huge ski domain, charming villages, sunny skies, and great value, this is a resort we’ll happily return to year after year (and we have!)

Whether you’re a family, a group of friends, a couple, or just someone craving authentic French skiing, Serre Chevalier delivers.

If you've tried Serre Chevalier before and are looking for other affordable, quieter French ski resorts like this why not try Val Cenis, Grand Tourmalet, La Clusaz or Les 7 Laux.